Aerial views of Riomaggiore Cinque Terre
CINQUE TERRE,  LIGURIA,  TRAVEL

A Full Guide To Riomaggiore

An explosion of light and sound, color and art. This is how I would describe Riomaggiore.
Riomaggiore travel guide: all you need to know to visit the best town to stay in Cinque Terre, including how to get there, things to see and do, various accommodation options, where to eat and drink, and important tips on how to avoid the crowds, for a perfect visit to Riomaggiore.

RIOMAGGIORE ESSENTIALS

Riomaggiore colourful houses by the harbour

From colorful buildings hanging from rocky cliffs to tempestuous waves crashing against the same, Riomaggiore – one of the most beautiful villages in Italy – has everything you could wish for in the creation of memories.

READ: Colourful Places in Italy worth visiting

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Beautiful girl in Riomaggiore
Riomaggiore pictures

Ancient medieval castles and Churches can be found in this tiny village, and while the old Blue Path is no longer accessible right now, the sunsets and clear blue waters remain just as inviting.

I have a series of the Cinque Terre region’s five villages; Vernazza, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia and Monterosso Al Mare, and apart from sharing the delights these beautiful villages have to offer, I hope to show something of the brave and strong people that inhabit the villages.

Beautiful woman overlooking Riomaggiore houses from top with the seaview

Why Travel Riomaggiore

Riomaggiore’s greatest attraction right now are the viewpoints that let tourists and villagers alike take photo shots and the scenery. There are a number of spots, both within the village, in the hills, and within and around buildings.

1. Iconic Views

  1. The view from the Via San Giacomo is the best if you want to take away the most iconic view of Riomaggiore. There are railings in place today, so taking a snapshot of yourself against the brick wall is no longer possible.
  2. Riomaggiore Beach just off Via San Giacomo gives a panoramic view of sea, rocky cliff, and crashing waves.
  3. Piazza Vignaioli lets you get close-up photos of the village’s beautiful Ligurian style houses.
  4. The hike up to the Castello di Riomaggiore, starting off from the main street – the Via Colombo – to the Post Office before you get to the Scalinata della Valle, a stairway leading to the Via Pecunia and then on to the castle.
  5. The view from the Castello di Riomaggiore itself.
  6. Finally, the Via dell’Amore’s lover’s path where you get to see both sections of the village below, and the sea itself from right against the cliff-face.
Aerial views of Riomaggiore at sunrise

2. Glorious Sunsets

The balconies, terraces, and patios of the AirBnBs and hotels have incredible views of the sea and sometimes you get to see brave village fishermen fighting against strong waves and currents.

Some of the best moments come at the oddest times or weather. The setting Sun strikes the air and sea to give off dazzling colors in orange, purple, and other hues.

3. Village hoping

There are five villages tie to each other along a trail called the Blue Path (Sentiero Azzuro). The most fun thing is that Riomaggiore lies at the far end of this string of villages – or at the very start. Going from village to village lets you sample not just the North East of Italian cuisines and culture, but also the more unique and distinctive blends from each of the villages. READ my detailed article on Hiking Cinque Terre Blue Trail

Via dell'amore trail

4. Shopping

Shopping in Riomaggiore is meant to allow you to experience the small distinct differences of these charming little Italian towns.

  1. Banchi has been declared a UNESCO heritage site and part of the charms it offers are the raisin wine Sciacchetrà, a local product. They also sell specialty gifts in the form of ceramics from Tuscany
  2. Both the Enoteca D’UU Scintu and Alimentari Franca also offers specialty gifts on top of amazing wines and foods locally produced
Riomaggiore streets

5. Cooking Classes

Just like with the wine, gelato, and fish dishes, pasta in this region of Italy has its own uniqueness. Fortunately, I found out there are several places you can actually get to LEARN how to make several of these dishes.

Cesarine offers a number of classes for

  • Gnocchi
  • Pesto
  • Pasta
  • Tiramisu
  • Tomaxelle

All these are traditional recipes unique to Riomaggiore and the region and I got to try out these recipes right on the edge of a cliff with the bracing sea air seasoning my cooking skills.

Riomaggiore view from the sea

Why NOT Riomaggiore

  1. Storms, rock-slides, and erosions have taken a toll on the Blue Path. Today, only the route to Vernazza’s path – not connected to Riomaggiore – are open to those wishing to walk the rail.
  2. The Via dell’Amore’s original beauty is somewhat marred by the netting used to prevent additional rock slides. Lovers on the original route would enjoy the natural scenery devoid of man’s touch, making it seem as if they were alone in the world.
  3. Swimming on the beach can be uncomfortable because of the pebbles brought down off the cliff faces.
  4. There can be serious crowding during the day, and while it does not take away the experience of the visit, it can be uncomfortable.
  5. Some places need reservations to visit. Walking the Via dell’Amore needs reservations, tickets – though cheap at 5 Euros – and crowd control to manage the large groups favoring the site.
Seagulls hovering above restaurants in Riomaggiore

Things To Do and See in Riomaggiore

Riomaggiore’s wealth in medieval lore and history is richer than most of the other five villages. There’s the 14th century Church of San Giovanni Battista, the the16th century Oratorio di Santa Maria Assunta, and the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Montenero.

Woman standing infront of Church of San Giovanni Battista of Riomaggiore

1. San Giovanni Battista (Church of San Giovanni Battista of Riomaggiore)

  1. Originally built in the Romanesque style, its renovation in the 19th century turned it neo-Gothic in appearance. Architecture and art lovers will especially love the 14th-century rose window in white Carrara marble left in place.
  2. The entrances are neo-Gothic, but there are Romanesque zoomorphic and anthropomorphic aspects to their design that will thrill your sense of art history.
  3. Finally, a triptych and a painting, the Preaching of John the Baptist is to be found on the altar, and one of several religious and art visiting spots in the village.
  4. The Church is barely 500 m from the train station with a shuttle service passing by the Church from the station while coordinating with train arrivals.

2. The Oratorio di Santa Maria Assunta

  1. The Church has some beautiful yet bitter history. The central altar holds a triptych of Jesus, Madonna, and Saint John the Baptist, as well as a wooden sculpture called Madonna of the Chains, commemorates a time when barbarian would region and chain Riomaggiore dwellers, holding them hostage for ransom.
  2. It is right along the Via Colombo but entering is restricted some times.

3. The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Montenero

  1. Built in the 8th century, it is one of the oldest buildings in the Cinque Terre, to say nothing of Riomaggiore.
  2. There is a venerated icon within the sacristy, the Assumption of Mary with the Apostles, the residents carry out in procession on Pentecost Monday.
  3. Like the brave residents of Riomaggiore, the Sanctuary’s history is both painful and sweet. In the 15th century raiders forever cost Riomaggiore their original icon, the Madonna di San Luca of Byzantine. Lombard raiders once forced the villagers to bury the shrine Our Lady of Soviore to hide it. This time, however, enough of the villagers remained who remembered and recovered it. A spring suddenly appeared in place, a gift of the Lady in thanks.
  4. There are vineyards you can see from the top.
  5. There is a footpath leading to the plateau on which the sanctuary rests. It is a beautiful place to walk, covered in pines and shade.
Castello di Riomaggiore

4. The Castello di Riomaggiore

  1. Built in the 13th century, it was intended to provide relief against pirates mostly, and other city-states as well.
  2. Open to the public and has rooms and halls filled with exhibits and displays of the villagers’ history and battles against invaders of all kinds.
  3. The garden and terrace are hotspots, offering a vista of sea and surrounding hill-side.

HERE’S A SNIPPET OF RIOMAGGIORE:

5. Boat Tours, Diving, and Marine Life

  1. Diving and snorkeling opportunities in plenty for those daring and adventurous enough. The water is crystal clear and a dive during calmer periods is lovely at the Marine Protected Area. Fussola Beach is small and pebbly and delightfully secluded from the village during off-peak seasons though be wary of the dangerously strong currents here.
  2. Octopus, crabs, colorful fish, and sea urchins are the predominant marine life in the waters close to the village.
  3. Dolphins and seals can be seen if you take a longer boat ride further out and along the coast.
  4. Experienced guides are available to help, and they also have all the SCUBA diving and snorkeling equipment you could need at hand.
  5. There are ship-wrecks that you can see deeper in when using diving gear. I imagine many a ship foundered and were plundered long ago given how choppy the waters around the Blue Path can get.
  6. Kayaking and boat expeditions are available, if the weather permits. Again, photo opportunities galore!
Beautiful woman along Riomaggiore alleys

6. The Old Town Area

Like other Cinque Terre villages, Riomaggiore’s residents recognize the value of their heritage, tradition, and history. The Old Town has the quintessential Ligurian look of colorful houses built close together, with stairways the main mode of network leading from one place to another.

  1. Many local vendors on the Via Colombo serve all manner of local specialties.
  2. Going by foot leads to wonderful surprises once you get into the quiet alleys. The streets wind in and around each other and at any moment you might be facing a café, snack stop, or a stunning view of the sea.
Map of Via dell'amore

7. Via dell’Amore

Lovers on the original route would enjoy the natural scenery devoid of man’s touch, making it seem as if they were alone in the world. A gate on the path lets you leave a lock, attesting your love. Theirs is also a stone edifice where mischievous people have left their words and letters of love for eternity.

The village has a population of about 1400 souls…and experienced a tourist population of 3 million just the last year alone. I think it is a brave thing, to not just take in so many strangers, but also go out of your way to make them comfortable and enjoy the experience of seeing your home.

Love padlocks chained along via dell'amore trail

  1. Visitors might have to make reservations – and tickets – to visit the place since they managed to secure only a small section of the path.
  2. The village managers have worked out a way to manage the crowds seeking out the lovers’ path, so you will have to be patient and appreciative of their arrangements at making your experience as special and wonderful as it can be.
  3. It took years to reopen following damage from landslides and rock falls, and over 22 million Euros. Let’s give back some of this love by visiting the brave little village!
Via dell'amore trail

8. Walking the Via Beccara

The lovers’ path – Via dell’Amore – is a favorite of tourists, and not just because of the idea of taking a long walk alone. The Via Beccara is a 1.5 km stretch of road that ties Riomaggiore to Manarola. Hikers love it because of the stunning scenery it offers along the road to or from Riomaggiore.

  1. Passing 200 m above sea level, it offers stunning sights or the train station below and the sea out in the distance.
  2. You pass through charming vineyards that the residents use to support themselves. They work hard to preserve their livelihood while letting you enjoy the walks un-inhibited. Please lets continue respecting their wishes.
  3. Can be a difficult climb, one I would not advice taking unless a serious hiker. Starts at the bridge across the Rio Maior canal before turning into a steep climb into the vineyards above.
Cute apartments at Riomaggiore

9. Wining and Dining in Riomaggiore

The wines are divine, and the local dishes are unique enough you can take away fond memories of Riomaggiore. The region is famous for their whites, the grapes being local Sciacchetrá ,Vermentino, Bosca, and Albarola mostly. Popular drinking spots; Fuori Rott, Bar O’Netto and Vertical Bar. Sundowners at open-air A Pié de Mà are delightful for an afternoon pick-me-up.

  1. The best thing about the eating experience in Riomaggiore will be the fresh sea food they have.
  2. There are bars, pizzerias, restaurants, and cafeterias in plenty, helping manage those large tourist crowds you will inevitably run across.
  3. Outdoor experiences are also in plenty, further away from the crowds, with a home cooked meal, the bracing sea breeze in your face, the sun set setting off the wonderful oranges and yellows of the house paints, and the winking stars shinning down on you as day gives way to night.
  4. Evenings and nights are less wild or crowded, but this is not a sure thing as more and more people are reading my blog posts

10. Restaurants and Pizzerias

Restaurants include; Ristorante Il GrottinoVecio MuinRistorante La LamparaTrattoria La GrottaEnoteca Dau Cila, and the Ristorante Borgo Di Campi. Bars and pizzerias include La LamparaDa DulinBar O’ NetoBar CentraleBar A Pie De Ma, and the Bar Il Sole a 180 degrees. There are literally too many to mention – La Lampara, for instance, is just to your left right out of the train station – and thankfully they left the marina free of them.

Here are a few I managed to visit myself, and I hope you also get to feel the same way I felt.

  1. Ristorante Il Grottino has the best décor and while you cannot view the sea from the inner section, the sea has been brought inside. The cave-like grotto gives the feel of coziness even if the space is not much and it could be a good change of scenery from the outside.
  2. Rio Bistrot, just on the harbor, has an impressive view of the waters and some of the best foods around.
  3. The Enoteca Dau Cila, with their deco made to look like a cave grotto.
  4. Vineria Ghemé and the Wine House for national, local and Ligurian white Cinque Terre DOC, Sciacchetrà Cinque Terre DOC.
  5. Bar O’Netto, just opposite Bar Zorza – don’t know why it is not on Google Maps – has the best night life scene. Vertical Lounge Bar wasn’t half-bad too.
  6. Primo Piatto lets you do takeaways of pasta.
  7. Both La Lampara – for pizza and pasta – and Bar e Vini a Pie de Ma – for drinks and dishes – are conveniently located just next to the train station.

Food on display at Riomaggiore shops

If you were lucky or timely enough, you get to see the lampare or local fishermen use lights to lure fish into their baskets and nets. The restaurants are creative in how they serve up their local sea foods: Parmesan cheese, egg, herbs, dried, salted, or sott’olio are just some of the examples.

Where To Stay in Riomaggiore

Though the village can get crowded, many residents offer their homes for accommodations at a small price. The advantage is that Riomaggiore’s night life can be active enough in terms of local eateries and places to sample wines. The disadvantage is that if someone was planning to tour the entire Cinque Terre five, Riomaggiore’s positioning as the first of the five makes it a last or first stop.

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AirBnBs

  1. Some AirBnBs and hotels are available, but that is not the case during peak tourist seasons.
  2. AirBnBs are cheaper than hotels, averaging 100 euro against the 200 for hotels.
  3. Villino Caterina House: big terrace seaview has good rooms for couples, with their key selling point the great terrace and view of the houses resting against the cliff with the sea just below them.
  4. Alla Marina Affittacamere is situated right in the village center on the Via San Giacomo and offers 2 bedrooms with 3 beds, enough for a group of 5. The modern aesthete is rather good when compared to the scene of the boats right outside on the small boat harbor.
  5. House of Mitì – HOMY 5 TERRE RIOMAGGIORE may be about 100 m from both the beach and the train station but offers a commanding view of the village from its terrace up top. It is also just 2 minutes away from the boat docks. Suitable for couples because it offers a double bed.
  6. Appartamento chic Riomaggiore 5 Terre have 2 bedroom apartments with 4 beds in total and just 100m from the village square. The wooden flooring and fittings was especially calming to me, especially since they have a picnic area as well.
  7. Voce del Mare is a studio apartment that has an iconic view of the boat harbor and is close to the train station, the cafes, restaurants, and the boats.

Hotels

  1. Most hotels are quickly booked during the high seasons so plan well ahead.
  2. Locanda Ca Da Iride Comes with a great patio with umbrellas available to keep the sun’s glare off. Also just 2 minutes from the bus stop.
  3. Casa del Borgo by Arbaspàa has a gorgeous modern aesthete with the bathroom décor designed to appear as if you are bathing under a small waterfall. Distances to great viewpoints, ferries, and train station are barely 5 min and the hotel is only 200m from the sea.
  4. The Rosa Dei Venti is this cozy little niche of a hotel that has heavily invested in decorating their rooms with Oriental art and furnishing. They have double rooms as well as one-bedroom options.
  5. Hotel Villa Argentina is further from the beach than most, but is on the Via De Gasperi and just 10 min from the train station. The views from the terrace is incredible as they look out over the Ligurian buildings sharing space with nature. A huge plus is how quiet the location is as well.
  6. La Vista di Marina by The First is well recommended among travelers and the reason for this was the incredible space they have for suites. The terraces are also very large, and they have beach beds available as well. At 600m from the beach, it is well away from most of the noise so provides a very private and classy get away for couples.

How To Get to Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre?

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Train Service to Riomaggiore

Travel to and from Riomaggiore is via train, ferry, and car. Riomaggiore is pretty close to the major hotspots of Genoa, Pisa, Florence and Milan, meaning the major airports in these cities double in serving tours to the village.

Travel times will vary though; it is a 3hr train ride from Genoa’s Genova Sestri Ponente-Aeroporto train station to the Cinque Terre villages. From Pisa Airport, there’s a €5 shuttle to Pisa Centrale where another €12.85 gets you to the Cinque Terre.

For those aiming for day trips, the Cinque Terre Treno Card is best suited because it lets you do unlimited hops from one village to the next for the whole day. I contemplated this option earlier on because from Pisa, there are tours that drop in the best sites around, including guided tours to the Cinque Terre.

Summary:

  1. About 80 min to 3 hrs to get from the major airports of Pisa and Genoa to the Cinque Terre.
  2. Travel costs average 18 Euro
  3. Regular shuttles and train services from the major airports of Genoa, Pisa, Florence and Milan are available

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Beautiful girl in Riomaggiore

Car Travel to Riomaggiore

Generally, the least attractive option for travelers. By car, I include private cars, rentals, taxis, and even bus services.

  1. Private cars and rentals will find it difficult and expensive because the Cinque Terre villages not only have costly parking lots, they generally frown on cars flooding the region
  2. Pisa Airport has a 24hr Taxi service though
  3. Negotiate and agree on fares with the drivers. Make sure you know exactly how much you are paying for everything, including your luggage and whatever tolls may be demanded anywhere
  4. 90 minute rides are fairly common
  5. Costly experience at €200 or more for taxis.
  6. If you have a rental or private car, prepare for a €35 a day charge at the parking lot, and that is if you are lucky enough to get a spot. There are barely 40 spots allowed.
  7. A good alternative to private parking would be Levanto, La Spezia, or Monterosso with their larger parking lots. Then you can just hope on to a train onto the Cinque Terre and collect your vehicle later when done with the region.
  8. There is NO bus service plying the route unfortunately, and I don’t know whether they are still in consideration.

Ferry Service!

  1. A ferry service leaves La Spezia for Porto Venere every hour on the hour and touches on Riomaggiore, Monterosso, Manarola and Vernazza – excluding Corniglia because they lack a good harbor – before moving on to Levanto.
  2. Tickets depend on how detailed your tour looks like. Each stop has ticket booths so you don’t have to feel forced over buying for routes you don’t want to take.
  3. They have cheaper all-day option that touches the four Cinque Terre villages. Please try for this option because they let you enjoy the entire Blue Path and Cinque Terre region from the sea route
Aerial views of Riomaggiore Cinque Terre

Essential Riomaggiore Travel Tips

  1. Riomaggiore is at the extreme end of the Blue Path so you should plan to visit her first or last of the Cinque Terre.
  2. During rainy seasons or when the water is choppy, they sometimes cancel ferry and boat services. Plan ahead by checking local weather stations or tour operators
  3. You can carry cash but there are ATMs in Riomaggiore on the Via Colombo and just outside the train station
  4. Though not as notorious as Vernazza, Riomaggiore has stairs in plenty both in the streets and to get up to your room from the ground level. Fortunately, there’s a shuttle service locally and their contacts can be obtained at the parking lot and train station
  5. Fountain water available so save on costs for drinking water
  6. Keep away from the pigeons!
  7. Restaurants can get crowded certain times of the year. Plus, they are few in number. Try for some of the wares from street vendors for local delicacies at cheaper prices as well.
  8. Like with Vernazza, booking your accommodation at larger towns or cities in the region might be a way to save more for more.

Conclusion

Falling in love with Riomaggiore’s special charm is easy. I especially liked how hard the residents seemed to work to maintain their village in the face of trials. It’s like they are channeling the strengths of those who’ve come by before and undauntingly press on themselves. This is a spot with great history and lore and great for both nature and art lovers to visit.

Just in case you arrived at this point, thank you🫶 ! As a continuation of Vernazza‘s visual fictional story, on Riomaggiore’s medieval history on being inhabited by pirates who loved Cinque Terre’s hidden gems. Just imagine the setting…

Beautiful lady watching the sea at Riomaggiore

The Great Duel

The sun dipped behind the pastel-colored building, casting an orange hue over the cobblestone streets. In this quaint Ligurian village, nestled between the cliffs and the sea, the annual wine tasting challenge stirred excitement among the locals. Giovanni, the jovial owner of a family vineyard, was about to retire. This would be his great send-off…and the final showdown.

The duel buzzed with anticipation as villagers gathered in the courtyard of an ancient villa. Tables adorned with bottles of rich reds and crisp whites stood ready for judgment. Giovanni, clad in a worn apron and a wide smile as bright as it was gapped. His retirement, all hoped, would coincide with the renewal of the village’s fortunes. The war had destroyed much of their past, and perhaps today would be the start of a new heritage.

The two were ready. Sofia, young and spirited, her innovative blends a draw for the just restored tourist route. Carlo, seasoned and almost as old as the old host, a vintner whose family crafted renowned wines for generations.

The rules were simple: blindfolded, the two would sample and identify a series of wines. The one with the most accurate guesses would be crowned Riomaggiore’s King of the Bud.

As the challenge began, laughter mixed with the clinking of glasses. Sofia’s detected subtle hints of fruits and oak. Carlo’s own buds drew him to deeper truths..

Round after round, the tension mounted. Sofia’s guesses were as diverse as the wines themselves, showcasing her bold experimentation. Carlo, rooted in the classics, confidently naming the grape varieties and the years with precision.

The final round arrived, the two had remained evenly matched so far. Blindfolds secured, they sipped the last wine—a velvety red that danced on their tongues like poetry. The villagers held their breath, awaiting the verdict.

With a moment of hesitation, Sofia broke the silence. “Antonio’s, from the southern slope of the vineyard, aged in oak barrels for 18 months.”

Carlo smiled knowingly behind his blindfold. “Bartholo’s, from our oldest vines, aged in traditional chestnut barrels for two years.”

Giovanni uncorked the bottle and revealed the label. A murmur of astonishment swept through the crowd as Carlo’s description proved accurate. He had clinched the title!

Yet, Sofia’s beaming face reflected not defeat but admiration for Carlo’s unparalleled expertise. The villagers erupted into applause, honoring both contestants’ mastery of their craft...

Love padlocks chained to rail along via dell'amore

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