Stone Town Zanzibar
Step into the heart of Zanzibar’s cultural heritage at Stone Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site brimming with history, vibrant markets, and stunning architecture. Wander through its labyrinth of narrow streets, where the rich aromas of spices fill the air and ornate wooden doors tell stories of a bygone era. From the historic House of Wonders to the bustling Darajani Market, immerse yourself in the fusion of African, Omani, Persian, Arab, Indian, and European influences that make Stone Town a captivating destination.
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Recently, I got the opportunity to visit my old country, and while there, I added a detour to Tanzania, where I visited Stone Town, an old port city on Zanzibar Island.
When I say old, I mean really old. Old enough that with a little bit of research, you will find that its buildings, arts, architecture, and even language are a mix of Persian, Arab, Indian, Coastal African, Omani, Portuguese, and British. Old enough that it is mentioned in the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea!
Today, let’s take a break from my tour across the Italian landscape and take you to a place fit for the 1001 Arabian Nights. Stone Town is an amazing place to visit, an old place whose face still bears the scars of an ancient past and a new people.
So, gear up, shades, slippers, bikinis, and beach shorts on, trusty local guide to the side, and take a trip around the fabulously exotic Stone Town with me.
** Short Story Excerpt… **
Clang, clang, clang…
Anxious gazes and eyes turned towards the old Portuguese bells. Their toll warned of sails approaching.
On the tower overlooking the pier and distant sea, the fat on the commander’s waist shivered and quivered.
“How dare they come so close!” an angry bellow shook an already quaking belly.
Far and almost out of sight, he could see flashes of light from the smaller figures. Within a hand’s span of the Sun, the fleeing figures and their pursuers were close enough that he could make out the figures on the canvases.
Suddenly, one of the larger ships seemed to shudder, then slow down, and the flashes of light from the pursuing ships repeatedly struck her masts and sides.
The five bigger ships had been fleeing in haste and disorder. Now, one of them was slowed. Her speed reduced enough that the pursuing ships were on and around her.
“Ahura damn them to the fires!” The fat and colorful figure once more cursed.
“The lost ship’s cargo will hurt us. The plague…it will be madness once the plantation owners know.” Assan, leaner and far darker, sighed. The cargo the five would have brought would have helped a great deal. Last summer’s heat and the mosquitoes had devastated the spice farms.
“All is as God wills. With the damn Europeans selling their cannons to any with the coin, every crossing is a gamble.” Barely of the Faith, Mazda sighed as well.
The lucky four were now close enough to the shore batteries that their pursuers veered off, happy to have at least captured one with its invaluable cargo.
An hour later, both Mazda and Assan were at the pier, greeting the grateful captains. Of course, gratefulness was one thing, business was business. As accountants began haggling and tallying, the ships’ cargo was slowly being whipped off board and into the Sun and shores’ warehouses.
“How many did you bring this time?” Mazda asked, frowning at the state of the cargo. Quite the number bore the tell-tale marks of an unruly crossing.
“Fret not. My boys know how to keep them under control.” The gold-toothed captain of the leading basque quickly spoke when he saw the frown on the harbor master, misreading him.
With a quick glance at the slaver, Mazda kept his peace. Already, he could see the plantation owners rushing up to the pier. With another sigh, he turned away from the ships offloading their valuable cargo. It would be a long day today.
A Short History
Zanzibar is not a separate state but rather a semi-autonomous region within the United Republic of Tanzania. It consists of two main islands, Unguja (commonly referred to as Zanzibar Island) and Pemba, along with several smaller islets. While Zanzibar has its own government, which oversees local matters such as health, education, and infrastructure, it shares national governance, including defense and foreign policy, with mainland Tanzania.
Zanzibar has its own president and a House of Representatives, but it operates under the broader framework of the Tanzanian constitution. Historically, Zanzibar was an independent sultanate until it merged with Tanganyika in 1964 to form what is now Tanzania. Despite this union, Zanzibar retains a distinct cultural and political identity.
The 2000-year-old Periplus of the Erythraean Sea mentions the island of Zanzibar, then known as Unguja. Her original inhabitants were likely Bantu speakers, a major language group in the East African Region.
Historical remains indicate that far from its later renown as the Spice Capital of the East African Coast, its origins were far more mundane. There was a fishing and agricultural community at Fukuchani, an area on the island. The pottery remains, beads, iron slag, shells, and beads also indicate a healthy trading culture.
Shangani Town, Stone Town’s predecessor, was only a fishing village before the Portuguese really put her on the map in the 16th century with the building of a church and the old Fort here. Then the Zanzibari and Pemba kicked them out. Fearful of retaliation, they in turn invited the Sultan of Oman to rule them, and then things began to get even more exciting.
You see, early in the 1800s, the British began to frown on the slave trade and all the evils of anti-capitalism it brought. However, for the Sultans of Oman, the ban on slave trade was a bad thing because slavery was the main financial driver of the state.
An innovator, the Sultan Said bin Sultan introduced spices to Zanzibar. His idea was to replace slave trading with spices, and in the process, keep the British from using the slave trade as a reason to annex his new East African domains. Cleverly, the Sultan also cultivated a relationship with the Americans, creating a small but valuable network of relationships with the European hegemons of the new world. The slave trade would continue on the sly, but openly, Zanzibar would be a model of virtue and spices.
Today, the residents of Stone Town are the penultimate cosmopolitan peoples of the world. The faces of residents are such a mix of the people of the world I am sure biologists and geneticists would have a field day just researching the genetic mix here.
Things to do in Stone Town Zanzibar
So, Stone Town is steeped in culture and history. And like good English tea, it takes refinement to enjoy what Stone Town can offer.
1. Shopping
First off, shopping is absolutely something you have to try out in Stone Town. Especially the wealth in color and materials the fabric industry here offers.
There are these fabric cloths called vitenge or shukas that you wrap around yourself. The women I mean. Men wear kangas, or so I think.
They are basically clothes dyed in a wide range of colors and patterns and even scripts at times that bear parables and sayings in Swahili.
Now, remember the Muslim influence here is strong? So the prints on these clothes will never bear faces or human figures. So what they do and accomplish in geometric shapes and everything is so fantastic it is no wonder they can be found in European markets!
2. Crafts
On the downside, I did not find crafters willing to teach or show their trade. Most of what I saw were finished goods and crafts brought into Stone Town from afar.
Still, the artisan skill and beauty can be stunning!
Sisal is a plant product that we in Europe mostly make ropes out of. Here, there are sisal hats, the wide-brimmed outs you see that give fantastic shade from the noon Sun. Bags, wallets, belts, mats, basins, plates, bowls, and every imaginable home stuff is made out of sisal. The beauty of it is the dyeing, designs, shapes, and colors that go into the process.
Any visit across Stone Town’s streets and doorways is bound to reward you with shops and doorways where all these and more are on offer.
3. Walking the Streets
The residents of Stone Town are fiercely proud of their culture and town. I found that the streets are safe to walk and, more importantly, very welcoming.
Still, safety first. I am told it is unwise for lone females to wander around the streets at night, and that even lone male travelers will face mugging. The way I see it, treat Stone Town as you would anywhere else in the world; street smarts, being careful and avoiding reckless behavior.
I list taking a walk around Stone Town as a must because of what hundreds, even thousands of years of cultural mixing and fusing have done for Stone Town.
A typical street in Stone Town will feature a house with a stone house with wooden awnings or balconies, wooden windows, and wooden doors.
I bring notice to the wooden everything because of the care and art put into the designs. They are exquisite, some bearing designs of incredible delicacy. The wood-design balconies hang out over these narrow streets and cast their shade. The wooden slats look flimsy because of how delicate the designs and shapes appear, but I hear the woods soured are rather heavy and strong, capable of bearing significant weight.
The houses have these stone platforms set against their walls that simply look like seating. In the afternoon’s cooling air, residents seem to cart out their wares, selling delicacies and foodstuffs on their doorways all the while the air rings with salacious conversations and gossip! Yes, you will wish you knew some Swahili!
And then there are the doors. They look like these massive, oak things that cover the entrances to homes. There are iron rings and points on the doors, a cultural transmission from India where they would stop elephants from charging up to the doors and ripping them off.
Not that I see an elephant navigating these streets!
They are really narrow, maybe two or three shoulders wide. Male shoulders, that is.
You will want to rent or book a place to stay that offers a good view of the sea. The breeze coming in can be so great that you might not need the air conditioning on offer. This was my preference because then you can take in the sea air at night, the breeze, listen to the sounds of the sea waves crushing the old coral at the pier, and rock to sleep on the balconies.
4. House of Wonders
The House of Wonders, or the Beit-al-Ajaib, was formerly the palatial home of the Sultans of Zanzibar before turning into a museum. Sadly, on December 25, 2020, a section of this iconic building, the House of Wonders collapsed with the tragic loss of two lives and is to this day temporarily closed.
It was built to impress, a match for the growing number of European housing designs that were increasing around East Africa. Apparently, among its points of pride, it was the first building in Zanzibar to have electricity! also the first building in East Africa to have an elevator! – hence was named “House of Wonders”
The cultural museum aside, this building is like a work of cultural art. The verandas are wide, its columns are made from iron, and the entire edifice is a collection of local building materials from coral to mangrove to steel. Inside is a real, life-sized piece of a boat called a mtepe, fishing tools, exquisite furniture, an old car that used to belong to an old President of Tanzania, Portuguese cannons, and a great many exhibits of Zanzibar’s past.
5. The Old Fort
Another historical site you will want to schedule a visit to is the Old Fort, simultaneously called either the Arab Fort or the Boma la Kale la Zanzibar. It has a fantastic history, one that tour guides might embellish simply for the dramatic effect.
Still, even the real history itself is deep. The Portuguese were here first before the Omani kicked them out. Then they finished some of the Portuguese buildings before building the fort as a protective measure. In the 19th century, it became a prison and garrison, as well as a railway terminal in the early 1900s. In the mid-1900s, it became a Ladies Club, a depot, and much later Zanzibar’s International Film Festival center with its amphitheater.
6. Old Dispensary
The Old Dispensary is an exquisitely designed and constructed building in Stone Town. I know I have used the word exquisite many times today, but this one takes the cake. The balconies are carved from wood…okay, this is normal here. But there are Indian stained glass windows, limestone and coral rag walls, and European-styled stucco edifices. Then there is the the carved bridges connecting floors, and the small museum.
7. The Sultan’s Palace
The Sultan’s Palace, not the House of Wonders, but another, looks a little like the Doge’s Palace in Venice when coming in from the sea. Its history is somewhat sad; it used to house the Sultan’s family but in 1964, was turned into Parliament and then into a museum much later, one that holds several belongings of Sayyida Salme, a Zanzibari Princess and daughter of the first Sultan. The museum holds some of her writing, clothes, accessories, furniture, and other stuff from her time.
8. Forodhani Gardens
Forodhani Gardens is a nature park you will want to spend some time visiting. Its night scene is great because of its proximity to the sea, i.e., right on the edge of the pier. What I said about Stone Town’s safety is mainly attributed to here. In the evenings, the place becomes packed with tourists and residents alike. Mostly for the weather and atmosphere of celebration, the night scene here transforms into. But also because of the food scene where local foods from viazi karai, samosas, mandazi, mihogo, sweet potatoes, bagia, mitai, seafoods, and a host of other local foods you need to taste rather than read about.
Places to Stay
If you are like me, you will be spending little time indoors and as much time as possible running around and taking in this great town.
The places I had in mind had to be clean and come with modern amenities, i.e., wifi, great balconies, and kitchenettes to try my hand at cooking something local.
Pili Pili Kahawa House
Seafarers Loft
Tarawanda House by Stawi
Zanzibar Spice Nest Apartment
Digital nomad Cave- Zanzibar
How to Get to Stone Town From Zanzibar Airport
Stone Town is about 15 minutes from Abeid Amani Karume Airport, i.e., some 8 km away.
Transport from the airport is simple, and you can either grab a taxi or a local mini-bus right from the airport ferrying people to Stone Town.
The convenience of airport taxis extends further. Taxis can drop you right on the doorstep of whatever place you booked to stay or were eyeing, while the mini-buses will drop groups off at designated stops.
On the other hand, the mini-buses can get cramped, offer little in the way of storage space for your luggage, and inconvenience you by having to wait till the mini-bus is full. Still, the communal feel of fellow adventurers about to share similar experiences and notes might be something for the more outgoing people.
F.A.Q.s
- Should I buy stuff at spice farms or in Stone Town? The vendors at the spice farms overprice their wares. Better buy from Stone Town where it’s much cheaper.
- How safe is night time at Forodhani Gardens? Very safe. So long as the crowds are there or you are in a group, you should be fine. I solo travelled to Zanzibar and I never felt in danger at any point and people were friendly and helpful.
- What is the pick-pocket situation? Always practice safety and protective measures at all times. Fanny packs are good, situational awareness is better.
- How about nights in Stone Town? Avoid moving around at night. Even couples get mugged so have your fun but get safe right about evening.
- What is the dress code? Dress conservatively. Women are expected to cover their arms, shoulders, and legs as a measure of respect for local cultures. A simple shawl should be enough for foreigners. However, going around sleeveless for a foreign/tourist woman is also fine as locals are familiar with tourists.
- I hear scams are common. True, watch out for fake spices, overpriced souvenirs, and even bottled water can be fake. If you are with a local guide, they might help you keep an eye out for the fake stuff. At the same time, be sharp and try out bargaining.
- Do I carry cash? Credit cards are a rarity and you will find it difficult to make purchases with cards. Carry cash if you intend to spend much outside of hotels.
- How safe is it going around carrying cash? Of course, try not to show you are carrying loads of cash on you. Do not wear expensive jewelry or watches. Selfie sticks are just asking for trouble as they might be snatched.
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8 Comments
Stephanie
Stone Town seems so relaxing. How long would you recommend staying there?
Basic To Glam Chic Travels
Zanzibar island has lots to explore with many tiny islands and 2 weeks is enough to do most of the fun activities including partying and also take in the beauty of the island. Just Stone town requires a day to explore and also have rooftop dinners.
Georgina
This post has given me inspiration to explore the Stone Town in Zanzibar. I’d love to explore the labyrinth of streets, and admire the pretty wooden doors.
Basic To Glam Chic Travels
Glad it has. Thank you
Viewsaroundus
Thankyou for letting know that Zanzibar has a lots of things to offer, and your detailed blog is very much useful
Basic To Glam Chic Travels
Thank you so much
Amabel Buck
I’ve always wanted to visit Zanzibar!!! This looks fabulous. What’s the best time of year to go?
Basic To Glam Chic Travels
June to October are the best times to go to Zanzibar as the heavy rains have cleared, guaranteed, uninterrupted sunshine, with temperatures hovering around 30°C.