A Full Guide To Vernazza, Italy

Vernazza travel guide: all you need to know to visit the prettiest village in Cinque Terre, including how to get there, things to see and do, where to stay, where to eat and drink, and important tips on how to avoid the crowds, for a perfect visit to Vernazza.

Introduction

Most know about Northwest Italy’s sauces, cheese, veal, Baroque palaces, sculptures, wines, galleries filled with incredible art pieces, and the Alps’ scenic view.

Vernazza has some of these, but not all.

What Vernazza has is a cozy, feel-good atmosphere and environment that is perfect for lovers, families, tour groups, and single individuals looking to take in the sights, skyline, and homey architecture of small Italian villages. What she offers in terms of cheeses, wines, and Ligurian cuisines is a powerful combo that mixes seafood, local ingredients, wine tasting, and epic skylines.

Vernazza is an old village, numbered among the chief places to visit in the Cinque Terre region. She offers a quaint and lazy fishing village appeal juxtaposed against some of the bluest and clearest swimming waters in the world. Whether you approach from high up the hill trails looking down on the beautiful and colorful coastal village, or from the sea and gazing up at the panoramic view of the skyline, you just know you will love your tour of Vernazza.

I will try to list places to eat, recommendations on accommodations such as Airbnb and hotels, restaurants, the ferries, and finally my own personal tips on what I feel would make for a really good experience if you were in a rush to cover Italy fast.

READ: Colourful Places in Italy worth visiting

Why Vernazza?

1. Just being one of the Cinque Terre is enough of an adventure in Italian lore and history.
2. Perched high on the rocks, Vernazza offers a commanding view of the rugged Coast both from the little village as well as the trails higher up.
3. If you are coming from the trails above, the horizon out to sea offers a perfect spot for picnics and pictures as you can see the village in its entirety.
4. If you are riding in on a boat or ferry, you will find the waters not just calm, but the inviting blue often tempts tourists to jump in well before they reach the port.
5. Vernazza has very pedestrian friendly walking trails, maze-like alleys – carrugi -, piazza, and streets offer many opportunities for adventure and games.
6. Dozens of little boats and ferries as well for different kinds of boating experiences.
7. There’s a beautiful piazza where, if you time it right, you get to enjoy good company, meals, and drinks alongside your family or traveling companion while the evening slowly comes in.
8. Many lovely and well-cared for AirBnBs and guest houses for those with more romantic inclinations in mind.
9. Unlike the other villages, Vernazza’s beaches are both free and have with waters so incredibly blue you could almost drink.
10. A protected and small lagoon good for small kids and poor swimmers to relax in.
11. Vernazza is close enough to large towns you can make arrangements for sleeping outside the village.

Why not Vernazza?

1. Only a couple of hotels to go around, and the restaurants like Ristorante La Torre might force you to book in advance. Still, the experience of the evening light slowly withdrawing while the vivid colors of houses play out their last light is worth the hassle.
2. Vernazza is jam-packed full of tourists. For a pedestrian friendly place like the village, this means avoiding July – and August’s heat – can make for serious crowds.
3. Unfortunately, recent landslides from 2011 have eroded not just the trail from Riomaggiore to Manarola, but have also impacted Vernazza’s own beach. The beach’s pebbles make lying uncomfortable right now for those specifically targeting beaches.
4. A lack of convenient transportation for older folks, so those flights of stairs will be hard for young families and grandies.
5. It a small town, so no kids’ parks or playgrounds where you can distract your children.
6. Private tours and some room arrangements can be expensive, especially during the tourist season.

History of Vernazza

A huge part of the whole Cinque Terre appeal is the story behind their founding. Genoa, a sea power back in the day, used to rule Turkish and the dreaded Barbary Pirates plagued these coastal waters. In the 11^th century, French nobility built the Castello Doria right on the tip of the rock jutting out into the sea. Next was the Republic of Genoa who tried to control these hauntingly beautiful waters.

Two galleys, then four and more in the 14^th century, were tasked with patrolling these rich waters. Then came Emperor Charles V, a megalomaniac with a taste for owning everything. Vernazza’s natural port and protected harbor would have been ideal for coastguards and pirates alike.

In fact, for most of medieval history, Vernazza was uninhabited by normal people. Instead, it was pirates who’d love hidden little gems like Vernazza. Just imagine the setting…

At a pirate look-out gazing out across the calm cerulean blue waters, a young man – a boy really – hurdles against a rocky outcrop, clutching at his thin rags. An anxious frown is on his face; the lazy rolls of the waves sing a siren’s song that lulls him to sleep. Yet he can’t, for his fellow villagers – opportunistic plunderers every once in a while – depend on his quickness of sight and mind to warn the village of approaching sails.

Ahhh! Why didn’t they build a watch tower or a mighty castle or something? Corniglia has one, right? So unfair that I have to sit out here in the cold…

Suddenly, a flash of something in the distance. His gaze sharpens, the frown deepens, and the grip on his unlit torch tightens. He knows he must be sure before lighting the match. Three months ago, little Enzo got a serious thrashing from Elder Lorenzo for crying wolf. He, older, could expect something worse if an unfounded alarm was to send the villagers off into the mule trails.

The thing in the distance draws closer. It flashes, disappears, then flashes again. Each sequence is clearer; the thing is growing bigger.

And it is not alone.

Suddenly, Gio gasps. They are oars, bringing in ships. Galleys most likely, given their speed and the lack of tale-tell canvas. He must warn the village!

Just as he turns around, right hand fiddling his waist for the match, a sharp pain downs him. Why are his hands numb all of a sudden? What are these shapes moving around him, hard and urgent?

As his eyes dim, and the ringing in his ears waxes and wanes, he cannot help but release a small tear. He still failed after all…

What To See And Do In Vernazza

1. Boat Tours

My favorite way to explore Cinque Terre’s picturesque towns is by taking boat tours along the Italian Riviera, which is the surest way to escape the crowds, as Cinque Terre is a no-brainer, it is a top destination in Italy. So yes, gazing at the distant horizon splitting clear blue skies and deep azure waters is a must-do in Vernazza, given the time and the budget.

Keep in mind that since Cinque Terre is a protected National Park, there are restrictions on the number of boats that can dock in each of the villages, meaning that you won’t be able to get on and off the boats.

Vernazza and Monterosso are the only two locations where tourist boats can safely approach the shore. Some boats will stop in Vernazza so you may explore the town, but don’t expect to visit the other villages this way. For this reason, I preferred staying in Vernazza.

Here are the various Bout Tours that you can enjoy:

1. Kayak tour from Monterosso to Vernazza-Maimuna cave + Snorkeling

⏱ Duration: 3h

Starting Point: Monterosso at 9:30 am

⚓️ End Point: Monterosso

See prices & availability here: Kayak tour from Monterosso to Vernazza-Maimuna cave + Snorkeling

2. Classic Cinque Terre Tour

⏱ Duration: 6-7 hrs

Starting Point: La Spezia Centrale at 8:30 am

⚓️ End Point: La Spezia Centrale

See prices & availability here: Classic Cinque Terre Tour

3. Cinque Terre Boat Tour with seafood lunch in Vernazza

⏱ Duration: 4h. 30min

Starting Point: Piazza Guglielmo Marconi, 29, 19018 Vernazza

⚓️ End Point: Vernazza

See prices & availability here: Cinque Terre Boat Tour with seafood lunch in Vernazza

4. Private Round-Trip Boat Tour from Vernazza

⏱ Duration: 2h

Starting Point: Via Visconti, 39, 19018 Vernazza SP, Italy

⚓️ End Point: Vernazza

See prices & availability here: Private Round-Trip Boat Tour from Vernazza

5. Cinque Terre: Golden Hour Boat Tour with Appetizers & Drinks

⏱ Duration: 3h

Starting Point: La Spezia

See prices and availability here: Cinque Terre: Golden Hour Boat Tour with Appetizers & Drinks

2. Village Hoping

The beauty of Cinque Terre is that all five villages are connected by the Sentierro Azzurro (The blue Trail) and they are all hike-able and also connected by efficient train services for those who don’t want to sweat it out.

Vernazza is a great base to stay because it gives you access to the two trails, Vernazza – Monterosso al Mare and the Corniglia – Vernazza, that are currently open to public use after the others were closed for maintenance.

At any of the villages there are clear markers/hiking trails (marked with red and white paint) and trust me, the views on the Blue trail are to die for….I mean, worth sweating for.

3. Vini!

Yes, it was coming.

While you are on the Sentiero Azzuro you can’t help but thirst for a glass of wine. The vineyards all around you just prime you on to the local flavors you can expect.

There are many wine bars in Vernazza itself. They mostly offer the Cinque Terre DOC (a dry white made with the native Bosco grape, together with Albarola and Vermentino) and the Sciacchetrà DOC (a sweet dessert wine). I personally liked the service at a number of quaint little hideouts in Vernazza, sneakily bar hoping and hoping to cover them all.

1. Just above Vernazza is the Cantina Cheo, where they ferment their own wine from a small vineyard and allow wine tastings at a small price.
2. The Enoteca Sciacchetrà is more shop rather than bar, where the owners take pride in explaining their wares to travelers out to experience Italy in little sips.
3. The Cinque Sensi is similar in that the owner seems to be trying out ‘foreign’ things with his wines. He learnt his trade in the US, I hear, but his abilities are legit.
4. Finally, the Vineria Santa Marta is the sole bar and restaurant in this list, although the Enoteca Sciacchetrà’s mix of pastas and wine, as well as the Cinque Sensi, arguably gives them a run for their money in both wines and foods.

4. Cooking Classes

Vernazza is not as famous as Monterosso or Riomaggiore for her cooking classes, but this won’t stop the lovely village from making a try.

1. Cinque Sensi, right on Via Roma, offers wonderful pesto-making classes as well as wine-tasting classes from her master mixologist. It is recently opened and may be the only place for cooking classes in Vernazza.

5. The Tiny Beach & Cliff-jumping

There are three spots to swim in Vernazza and one is right by the harbor. Unlike the other villages, Vernazza’s beaches are both free and have waters so incredibly blue you could almost drink but they are tiny and pebbly, not exactly the best place to place your towel (ouch!). If this is your thing, you’ll be rewarded by a beautiful background of the Chiesa di Santa Margherita and colorful fishing boats docked by the harbor. Swimming by the harbor is pleasant with calm deep waters and if you don’t mind the noise from boats and ferries docking here bringing in visitors, you are good!

There’s a second hidden beach spot, with a larger pebble beach (less ouch!), via a small cave, the currents here are quite strong so I’d be careful, especially during windy days. There are spots where you can cliff jump as well.

Another cool spot to swim and jump off in Vernazza is right at the tip of the harbor, where you can jump off into the deep aqua-colored water. Again, it’s all rocks but I truly enjoyed lying on the warm rocks and I forgot for a second that my holiday was coming to an end and soon I’d have to go back to my usual routine …..

6. Vernazza Streets and Alleys – Intrigue, Adventure, and Chase

I think part of the reason we all loved Vernazza was due to the way the village is a ‘city’ of contrasts. Vernazza is small, and her narrow alleys and streets leave no room for cars and the like. In fact, I think the hundreds of stairs invented the streets that way to make sure people didn’t bring in cars and exhausts and such.

Where the cliffs and sea-front views offer panorama and vista, the close streets focus your mind and eye on the things close to you. The residents here really love their little home and you can tell from the efforts they’ve taken to keep the streets clean.

For example, from the Blue Trail you can see a lonely little tower jutting out and above the rest of the town buildings. The Church tower of the Santa Margherita di Antiochia is iconic, being one of the oldest buildings of the village, and the way it stands watch over the little lagoon-like enclosure makes you feel as if St. Margaret herself still watches over the little children playing in the water.

At the street level, the tower appears to loom over you. The rocks and stone over which the buildings stand have a sense of depth and age that intimates at the history of the town. Since the 11^th century when a French noble first built the Castello Doria, the village has changed hands many times right up to the present when it featured in WWII.

What I love about the streets is how from high up among the hills and looking down, it feels like there’s barely room to move down in the village. The Piazza Marconi feels like the only open space where your soul still retains its freedom right before you get in among the restaurants, hotels, and AirBnBs.

Yet, just as the village is hidden from sight in the folds of the cliffs and hills when in approach from the Blue Trail, just so are Vernazza’s secrets.

Everywhere you go in the village you see flights of stairs. Narrow enough to give you the privacy to enjoy yourself in your fantasies, roomy enough to not feel weighed down upon by the old stones. One time you feel like you got turned around one alley or another, the next you suddenly see guardrails and the open sea and then you wonder whether you skipped worlds somewhere.

Ultimately, while legion in number, they offer conveniences to sight-seeing and fun.

7. Church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia

Set right up against the pier, the Church was built after the Romanesque style in the 11^th century. The newer foundation built in the 14^th century retained the apse – a semi-circular recess – and the motif is repeated with the 40m tall and octagonal bell tower outside. Newer remodeling in the 16^th, 17^th, and 18^th centuries added their own styles and fingerprints, testament to how old and loved the village is to its residents.

Today, the church takes a Ligurian-Gothic form. The original finger-bone of St. Magaret are missing, but there is a wooden crucifix and a number of 17^th– century paintings available to view.

8. Castello Doria

Set right up against the tiny piece of promontory-like rocky crop jutting out to sea, a finger pointing out at would-be invaders thinking to spoil the village’s peace. The structure was also initiated in the 11^th century by the Obertenghi, a noble French family.

Much of its original structures are lost to time, including a chapel once dedicated to St. John the Baptist. Today, what remains is a lonely tower looking out to the sea, with narrow stairs available for approaching.

9. Sunsets in Vernazza

The Sunsets from the top of the hills overlooking the small village are the most fantastic scenes I have ever experienced.

There is a spot on the hiking path headed towards Corniglia that will capture the dying light of the sun to your left, the town just coming to light, and the tower bravely standing on the edge of the town. To the far right, there is another of the Cinque Terre villages just lighting up as they are hidden behind a cliff.

Walk along the path while trying out the shots. Once you capture all four of these in your viewing frame, you will know you hit the spot.

10. Shopping in Vernazza

I found the shopping experience the most unique of the Cinque Terre villages, but not that the other four have lesser to offer. The chief reason was because of my own taste in what I wanted.

1. Gocce di Byron sells perfume blends from the various local lemon trees, vineyards, and sea products.I was drawn to the earthy white musk and sandalwood Guvano and helplessly found myself with a basket carrying several scented candles and skincare products.
2. Il Talismano sells a variety of jewelry made from horn and amber. There were also curio bags, wallets, satchels, and other leather products ranging sourced from as far as Africa and Nepal!
3. Bottega d’Arte specializes in artworks depicting the sunsets, seascapes, and lives of Vernazza’s people.

Where to eat and drink in Vernazza

… A Tale of the Octopus and the Pasta …

I split the wines attractions from the foods because I do not believe you can appreciate either fully without failing the other.

Of course, this only applies elsewhere, not in Vernazza. There are a number of really good restaurants and I will try to list what I found special or interesting about the restaurant.

1. The Ristorant Belforte

1. Quite a number of tables set right against the cliff. Good spacing and with the guard rails you can dine there without worrying about your kids
2. Different styles of tables – singles, doubles, buffet style – right on the terrace with umbrellas and awnings protect you from the glare of the Sun while you eat and gaze out across the water.
3. Ornate lamps décor for the indoor room give it a Mediterranean appeal.
4. The décor for both the terrace and the indoor setting has rocks and are a match the cliff-face’s wavy striated patterns. The terrace makes you think of the waves you look at, the inside is more stable, a solid appearance that lets you relax as storms pass outside
5. A good variety of sea foods, prepared in the traditional Ligurian common to the region. You get a number of courses of Vernazza style sea-food salads. The menu includes a serving of red octopus in potatoes, olives, and tomatoes. There’s sphagetti and pasta. Lots of pasta, with signature dishes from the chefs including my favorite, Tagliatelle noodles with meat sauce Bolognese style. Top these off with some pan-fried strawberry with ice cream and I can tell you also forgot about looking out for pirates!
6. Warning! Book early. Book fast. Especially during tourist season. Fill out the reservation form to reserve your Lunch or Dinner! Lunch 12.30 – 14.30 | Dinner 19.30 – 22.30

See? You almost forgot all about the food. I’m telling you, the senses confuse us, especially when in competition.

2. Trattoria Gianni Franzi

This restaurant is right on the Piazza Marconi and is a favorite for the large family groups looking to take dips in the water later on. Again, the favorite dishes are sea-foods with pasta, where you get to enjoy all manner of stuffed, lemon, and salted anchovies alongside a large array of wine servings.

1. A pastries and ice-creams galpre that are favorites with kids taking a break from the swim just a few yards away
2. The vivid colors of the houses on the sea front – some orange – are especially calming right when the sun sets

3. Gelateria Vernazza

What stands out here is the fresh and traditional artisan gelato they offer. The restaurant’s chefs are all family and provide a mix of both formal and homegrown art in the creation of perfect gelato.

[I ate at least 2 gelatos here A DAY on our stay here, and it was during autumn, and I’m not naturally a careless eater.]

1. Good location right on the Via Roma
2. Vegetarian friendly courses
3. The gelato is lovingly prepared by a father-son duo who combine traditional and professional techniques for your unique experience
4. Combos are imaginative and creative. The affogato – a vanilla and Italian expresso combo – was great. Then you dive in and sample blends with lemon, syrups, nuts, pistachio and others

Where to stay in Vernazza

Hotel Options:

1. Hotel Gianni Franzi; Right in the heart of the Cinque Terre Coast, Hotel Gianni Franzi offers en suite rooms just below Vernazza’s Doria Castle. Its terraces offer stunning views of the Ligurian Sea and the village, and Wi-Fi is free in public areas. It has an excellent location with great sea views literally overlooking the sea with breakfast included.
2. Affittacamere Elisabetta; It is located in the heart of Vernazza, a characteristic hamlet in the Cinque Terre area. The property offers 2 furnished terraces, with 360° panoramic views across the town and the Ligurian Sea. All rooms at the Elisabetta Affittacamere feature a sea-view balcony, The property is a 5-minute walk from the train station for links to Monterosso and Corniglia. You can reach the main town square and the sea via a number of narrow staircases.
3. Enrica barrani room; Set in Vernazza, 200 metres from Vernazza Beach, Enrica barrani room offers rooms with air conditioning (trust me, ACs in Italy are not so obvious to have). Breakfast is also included.
4. PORTOROSSO Rooms; Located within 200 metres of Vernazza Beach and 27 km of Saint George’s Castle, PORTOROSSO Rooms provides rooms in Vernazza. This pet-friendly hotel also has free WiFi. Each room is fitted with air conditioning and a flat-screen TV, and certain rooms at the hotel have a terrace.

Guest house Options:

1. Rina Rooms; Set in the very heart of Vernazza, Rina Rooms is about 150 metres from Vernazza Train Station and less than 5 minutes’ walk from the small beach and beautiful Ligurian Sea. Featuring free WiFi, rooms at the Rina have a private bathroom. Each comes with air conditioning, fridge and tiled floors. The property also offers a self-catering studio, only steps away from the main building.
2. Chiara rooms; Chiara rooms is located in the centre of Vernazza, a 5-minute walk from Vernazza Train Station and close to the beach. In Chiara rooms, guests can choose from 2 bedrooms, each with a private bathroom. A flat-screen TV is also provided.
3. Mainetta Sea View Apartment with AC; Slightly n the pricier side is the Mainetta Sea View Apartment and that’s obviously why, it’s right at the beach!

Getting to Vernazza

1. Trains and cars.

Pisa, Genoa, Milan, and Florence are the closest airports to Vernazza, but once there, you want to connect to the Cinque Terre by train, bus, or car. From these cities, its about 1.5 to 4 hours depending on what city you landed in. Then, for € 7-15 you will find yourself in La Spezia, Levanto, or Sestri Levante before connecting to any of the Cinque Terre villages by car or train.

1. The most popular route is a train from La Spezia before boarding the Cinque Terre Express for a quick, 18min train ride to Vernazza. Levanto and Sestri Levante are also popular routes with Levanto shortest at 8 minutes, and Sestri Levante the longest with 23 minutes on the train.
2. You could try going for the Cinque Terre Treno Card for unlimited second class travel. Note, though, that you have to buy one using your legal identification as you can’t pass it off to someone else to use
3. Added advantage is you can use restrooms at the train stations and the rides are frequent enough you can do a tour of the entire Blue Trail in a day if you are in a hurry

Car options are a no-go; Vernazza doesn’t allow non-resident cars. So a rental has to stop at a visitor’s parking some 500 m from the village and then a hike with your luggage, or a cheap 2 euro shuttle from the parking lot.

1. There seems to be a flat rate offer for car rides from any one village on the Cinque Terre to the next. They charge 4 euro
2. The roads can be treacherous, so avoid driving yourself and avail yourself of the local drivers for added safety

2. Ferries and Boats

An interesting option would be getting to Vernazza by boat or ferry, taking in the site, and priming yourself for a deeper experience once on the trails or streets. There are regular rides during tourist season, and while you don’t have to book a ride at https://www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it/ you might want to do it to beat a queue on the off chance.

1. Added advantage of travel by boat is the sight-seeing of the Three Islands of Palmaria Tino and Tinetto. They arrange for excursions onto this Islands so photo opportunities
2. Tickets go for € 37 from La Spezia to Vernazza
3. Ticket purchasing is easy with a 30 min wait time
4. Large groups need to book in advance if they want to travel together. But this is for groups of about 20 or so.
5. Children 6 and below ride for free. €7-11 pay reduced fees.
6. Private tours are available if you don’t want to toe the party line. These depend on your negotiating skills for pricing though.

Conclusion

Vernazza is a lovely little place whose residents don’t leave you with the sense that you are intruding on their privacy or homes. In fact, most go the extra mile in letting you know you are welcome and take pride in what they have to offer.

Another thing with Vernazza is that right now, it’s the only member of the Cinque Terre where you can go the full package of Blue Trail and sea experience. The residents and local councils have taken extra care to preserve their homes and region as much as they possibly could so I appreciated the effort on a personal level.

If you have additional questions please let me know and I will try to answer them as concisely as possible.

As always, I hope that this guide helps you and you have a swell time in Vernazza.

Enjoy!

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